Now that I decided to start this challenge, it’s time to shop! Who could complain 🙂 Although there are plenty of supermarkets and small neighbourhood stores around Sarajevo (more on this tomorrow), the kind of shopping I have in mind today will not take place at the mall.
The truly local experience I am looking for are farmers’ markets – and there are plenty of those in Sarajevo! Markets everywhere in the world are similar – bustling streets, the neat (or not so neat) stalls covered with colourful fruits and vegetables, a particular energy that lifts your spirits and a smell of local delicacies filling the air. Some markets give you more than others – like delicious Forodhani Gardens and Darajani spice market in Zanzibar’s Stone Town, the experience of tuna auctions and fresh morning sushi at Tokyo’s Tsukiji market, or dancing scorpions on a stick, waiting to be barbecued at the markets around Beijing. Compared to these world treasures, markets in Sarajevo might be rather conservative in their offering, but never boring.
Almost every neighbourhood in Sarajevo has its own farmers’ market which is open daily – stalls full of fruit and vegetables, accompanied by indispensable small bakeries and butcheries on the side. An occasional flower-seller, and an obligatory granny selling hand-made priglavke – colourful woollen socks, which you will get to know as soon as you enter any house in the Balkans. According to every mother in this region, wiggling your unrestrained toes and sporting bare feet around the house is a sure sign that you will get sick – and priglavke are meant to prevent this horrible predicament.
Over the years, the markets started to “stock” cigarettes, shoes, clothes, and household goods, which can still be found in some parts of the city. Although shopping outside in winter may sound daunting, with a forecast of pleasant -2 today, I will take a chance.
My nearest market at Grbavica is only a ten minute walk. I have known this place since childhood, as it is right next to my school. Compared to other markets in Sarajevo, it is rather small, but offers everything one might need. In the UK, I was surprised that farmers’ markets sold avocados and mangoes, as I could not imagine either of these two growing on the Rainy Island. Sadly, this type of westernisation has also arrived here – and although markets in Sarajevo still have mainly local products, occasional bunch of bananas can be seen hanging around the stalls. Yet, most products are seasonal (yes, in spite of the cold), fresh, local and bursting with flavour.
The best part of shopping at the market is actually talking to people. It may seem overwhelming at first, as we live in a virtual world – we look for a navigation app rather than asking for directions, we have virtual friends playing online games, and we even have virtual dates. Yet, as you make that first step, you will find that deep within you there is still that need for a hashtag- and sticker-free conversation.
Most of the farmers at the market are making a living from their products – and they want to tell you all about them. Although they may seem like a hard nut to crack- people in this country love to talk. You can ask questions about how they produce the veggies, where they grow it, what is seasonal and fresh – and the more you engage, the chances are, the better products you will get. I have been given tips on growing my own mint from a man who sells it, received some interesting advice on farming (although I am yet to own a piece of land which can serve than purpose), learnt about some top-secret mushroom-picking spots in the area, and have been given some (seriously unnecessary) recipes for making jams. If you are up for it, you may even get a chance to try some local home-maderakija.
Walking around the stalls, having casual conversations, and inhaling the fresh earthy smell of local produce, I learn that this part of my going-local challenge is yet another opportunity for an enjoyable, slow living. This way, food becomes much more than calories you need to run the daily errands – but a product of so many social interactions and a thread which binds community together. So grab that bag and hit the market 🙂
Written by Lana Pašić at https://locallivingbih.com/